Beyond Bali: Komodo dragons, the reefs of Raja Ampat, the temples of Java and the wild coast of Sumba.
Indonesia has thousands of islands, and Bali is only the start. East of it lie the dragons and manta rays of Komodo, the villages of Flores and the empty beaches of Sumba. Far to the east, Raja Ampat has reefs with an exceptional range of species. To the west, Java has Borobudur and a line of smoking volcanoes.
This is a trip for curious travellers who do not mind small planes and boats. Our favourite way in is a private phinisi, a traditional wooden sailing ship, which turns the travelling into the holiday.
The honest caveat is logistics and pace. Domestic flights change schedules and weather affects boats, so we build in slack. Raja Ampat is in the Papua region, where FCDO notes security risks, so read the latest advice before booking.
The experiences we plan most often, with the months they are at their best.
From Labuan Bajo on Flores, a private phinisi sails into Komodo National Park for three or four nights. Walk with rangers to see Komodo dragons on Rinca or Komodo, climb Padar for the view, swim at the pink beach and snorkel with manta rays in the channels. The seas are calmest from April to November. Choose your boat carefully: standards vary hugely.
Raja Ampat, off the western tip of New Guinea, is a maze of jungle-covered islands and reefs with an exceptional range of species. Divers and snorkellers see manta rays, walls of soft coral and large schools of fish. Travel by liveaboard or stay in a small eco-resort. The calmer season runs roughly from October to April.
Near Yogyakarta in central Java, Borobudur is a ninth-century Buddhist monument of stacked, carved terraces topped by bell-shaped stupas, with volcanoes on the horizon. See it at sunrise, then visit Prambanan, a Hindu temple complex of tall, pointed spires, in the late afternoon. In Yogyakarta itself, visit the kraton palace and a batik workshop.
In east Java, Mount Bromo smokes in a vast caldera of volcanic sand; watch the sunrise from the Penanjakan viewpoint above it. Further east, the crater of Ijen has a turquoise acid lake and sulphur miners at work. Both involve very early starts and rough ground, and conditions change with volcanic activity, so we follow local advice.
Sumba is an hour from Bali by air, and very different. Its villages have tall-roofed clan houses and stone tombs, and many Sumbanese follow the Marapu faith. The west has long surf beaches and a few very remote resorts. In February or March, the Pasola, a ritual battle on horseback, is held in the west.
Flores stretches east from Labuan Bajo, a mountainous island of rice terraces, coffee farms and Catholic villages. The three crater lakes of Kelimutu change colour over time; see them at sunrise. Wae Rebo, a mountain village of conical houses, is reached by a steep walk and an overnight homestay. Travel by road with a driver.
Beyond Bali, the places worth staying are small. Choose a private phinisi or a small island resort for Komodo, an eco-resort or liveaboard in Raja Ampat, a heritage hotel near Borobudur, and a remote beach resort on Sumba. Most trips start or finish with a few nights in [Bali](/destinations/asia/bali).
We match each trip in Indonesia to hotels, lodges and villas chosen for the way you travel. Tell us what matters and a specialist will suggest two or three that fit.
Ask for hotel suggestionsIn Java, Flores, Komodo and Sumba, the dry season runs roughly from April or May to October, and the wet season from about November to March. Komodo’s seas are calmest in the dry months, when boats are busiest.
Raja Ampat, far to the east, runs to a different pattern, and is usually calmer from October to April. FCDO notes that volcanic eruptions are frequent across Indonesia, so we keep an eye on activity near Bromo and Ijen.
A 12-night journey from the temples of Java to a phinisi in Komodo and a remote beach on Sumba. Best from May to October. 12 nights.
Fly in via Singapore and Jakarta. Borobudur at dawn, Prambanan at dusk and a batik workshop.
Via Bali to Labuan Bajo and aboard a private phinisi. Dragons, Padar at dawn and mantas.
Via Bali to west Sumba for clan villages, empty beaches, waterfalls and long, quiet days by the sea.
A short morning flight to Bali, then connect via Singapore for the overnight flight to London.
Practical notes checked against their sources. For entry and safety, the FCDO advice for Indonesia (opens in a new tab) is always the authority.
There are no direct flights from the UK. Fly via Singapore to Jakarta or Bali, then onwards: Yogyakarta, Labuan Bajo and Sumba are one to two hours by air, and Sorong, for Raja Ampat, about four hours from Jakarta. The country spans three time zones: Java is 7 hours ahead of the UK, Komodo and Sumba 8, Raja Ampat 9.
UK passport holders need a visa, on arrival or as an e-visa, and must complete the All Indonesia arrival card before landing. Read the FCDO entry requirements (opens in a new tab) and the regional risks page for Papua.
Read the FCDO entry requirements for Indonesia (opens in a new tab)
See TravelHealthPro (opens in a new tab) well before travel. Medical care is limited on remote islands, so good insurance matters. Drink bottled water and use repellent.
The currency is the rupiah. Carry cash in the islands, where ATMs are few; boats and resorts are usually prepaid.
Buy a tourist SIM at the airport or an eSIM before you go. Signal disappears at sea in Komodo and Raja Ampat, which many find a relief.
Tipping is not universal, but it is appreciated. We suggest tipping boat crews, guides and drivers at the end of their time with you.
Bali is one island with excellent hotels, spas and culture, and it is often the base. The rest of Indonesia is wilder and more remote: dragons and mantas in Komodo, reefs in Raja Ampat, temples in Java and villages on Sumba. Many travellers do a week in Bali, then add Komodo or Sumba.
April to November, during the dry season, when seas are calmer and the islands brown and golden. July and August are busiest, so book boats early. From December to March, rain and rough seas make sailing less comfortable and some boats stop. Manta rays can be seen for much of the year.
For divers and keen snorkellers, yes: its reefs are exceptionally rich in species. It is a long journey, via Jakarta or Makassar to Sorong, then by boat. Allow at least a week there. The calmer season is roughly October to April, and the region is part of Papua, so check FCDO advice first.
A little. The travel involves small planes, boats and early starts. But the places to stay can be very comfortable, from private phinisi with crew and chef to quiet beach resorts on Sumba. We pace the trip to include rest days, and choose boats and resorts with care.
Tell us a little and a specialist will reply with ideas, dates that work and a price. Best months: May to September.
A Hindu island of temple ceremonies, rice terraces and clifftop villas, with a spa culture that runs deeper than hotels.
Limestone lagoons in Palawan, coral reefs and island-hopping by outrigger across an archipelago of thousands of islands.
Orangutans in Borneo’s rainforest, the street food of George Town and island beaches on two different monsoon coasts.
