Tahiti, Moorea, the coral atolls of the Tuamotus and the wild Marquesas: 118 islands across a vast stretch of ocean.
French Polynesia is five archipelagos scattered across the South Pacific. The Society Islands hold Tahiti, the capital island, and Moorea, its green neighbour. North-east lie the Tuamotus, low rings of coral around lagoons, known for drift diving in their passes. Far to the north, the Marquesas are high, steep and deeply Polynesian.
We plan island-hopping trips by Air Tahiti, pairing a high island with an atoll: Moorea for hiking, bays and whales, then Rangiroa or Fakarava for the passes. For people who want culture and wild landscapes, we add the Marquesas, or the Aranui, a working supply ship that carries passengers.
The caveats are distance and connections. Inter-island flights are limited, so routes must be planned around the schedule, and some islands have mainly small family-run pensions. That simplicity is also much of the appeal.
The experiences we plan most often, with the months they are at their best.
Rangiroa is one of the largest atolls in the world, its lagoon so wide you cannot see across it. The Tiputa and Avatoru passes channel the tide in and out, bringing dolphins, manta rays and sharks. Divers ride the current; snorkellers can drift over the shallower edges. Visit the atoll's vineyard for something unexpected.
Fakarava is a UNESCO biosphere reserve in the Tuamotus, known for grey reef sharks gathering in the passes, above all at the south pass, where hundreds can hang in the current. Above water it is a quiet atoll of pink-tinged beaches and simple pensions. Stay near the south pass to dive it at the right tide.
Moorea is a short ferry ride from Tahiti, its two great bays, Cook's Bay and Opunohu, divided by Mount Rotui. Drive up to the Belvedere lookout, hike through pineapple plantations and swim in the lagoon. From July to November, humpbacks visit to give birth, and licensed boats run whale watching under strict rules.
Hiva Oa in the southern Marquesas is where Paul Gauguin and Jacques Brel chose to spend their last years, and both are buried above the village of Atuona. The island's valleys hide great stone tikis and ancient platforms, especially at Puamau. It is about three hours by plane from Tahiti.
Nuku Hiva, capital of the Marquesas, has knife-edged ridges, deep valleys and one of the tallest waterfalls in French Polynesia at Vaipo. Visit the tiki and paepae platforms of Hatiheu, and watch local carvers at work. It is not a beach island: come for hiking, culture and the sense of being far from anywhere.
Tahiti deserves more than a transit night. In July, the Heiva i Tahiti festival fills Papeete with dance, song and traditional sports. At the far end of Tahiti Iti, the heavy reef wave at Teahupo'o draws professional surfers and is best watched from a boat. The Papeete market is good for flowers and pearls.
On Tahiti and Moorea there are full-service resorts and a few boutique hotels. In the Tuamotus and the Marquesas, most places are small pensions run by families, simple but warm, with shared dinners of fresh fish. For total seclusion, The Brando on Tetiaroa is a private atoll a short flight from Tahiti.
We match each trip in French Polynesia to hotels, lodges and villas chosen for the way you travel. Tell us what matters and a specialist will suggest two or three that fit.
Ask for hotel suggestionsThe islands have two seasons. From May to October the weather is drier and more comfortable, with daytime highs around 29°C to 31°C, and humpback whales visit from July to November. June to September is the high season, and July and August are busiest.
From November to April it is warmer and more humid, with tropical showers and, as the FCDO notes, the possibility of cyclones. It is still excellent for diving, with water at 28°C to 29°C, and September to November and February to April are quieter.
Tahiti and Moorea, two Tuamotu atolls for diving and drifting, then the Marquesas for culture and wild landscapes, all by Air Tahiti. 13 nights.
Land at Faa'a after the flight from Los Angeles and rest. Evening at the Papeete food trucks on the waterfront.
Ferry across to Moorea. The Belvedere lookout, a lagoon day and, in season, a whale-watching trip.
Fly about an hour to Rangiroa. Drift dives or snorkels in Tiputa Pass and a boat to the Blue Lagoon.
Fly to Fakarava and stay near the south pass for its sharks, with quiet days on the lagoon.
Fly via Papeete to the Marquesas. Hatiheu's tikis, the Vaipo waterfall and the island's carvers.
Fly back to Papeete for the overnight flight to Los Angeles and on to London.
Practical notes checked against their sources. For entry and safety, the FCDO advice for French Polynesia (opens in a new tab) is always the authority.
All international flights land at Faa'a on Tahiti. From London, connect in Los Angeles, about 11 hours from Heathrow, for the 8-hour flight to Papeete, or via Paris. Air Tahiti links the islands: Moorea is 15 minutes by air, Rangiroa about an hour and Nuku Hiva just under four.
UK passport holders do not currently need a visa for a holiday. Read the FCDO entry requirements (opens in a new tab), and remember the US transit rules if you route via Los Angeles.
Read the FCDO entry requirements for French Polynesia (opens in a new tab)
Medical care is limited on remote atolls and in the Marquesas, so travel insurance matters. Protect yourself from sun and mosquitoes. Check TravelHealthPro (opens in a new tab) and the FCDO health page.
TravelHealthPro advice for French Polynesia (opens in a new tab)
The Pacific franc has a fixed rate against the euro. Cards are accepted in hotels and shops on the main islands, but small shops, markets and pensions on remote islands often want cash.
Check whether your UK network has roaming with Vini, or buy a Vini SIM on arrival. Internet can be slow on outer islands, and not every pension has wifi.
Tips are not expected anywhere in the islands. If a guide or pension host goes out of their way, a gratuity is welcomed.
Three or four in two weeks is plenty. Pair a high island such as Moorea with a Tuamotu atoll, and add the Marquesas if you are curious about culture and walking. Air Tahiti schedules shape the order, so we plan the route around the flights rather than the map.
Very much so. The passes of Rangiroa and Fakarava bring dolphins, mantas and huge schools of grey reef sharks on the tide, and the water is warm all year. Non-divers can snorkel the lagoon edges and still see a great deal.
The Aranui is a passenger-carrying supply ship that sails from Tahiti to the Marquesas via the Tuamotus, delivering cargo to remote communities. Passengers join guided excursions ashore. It is a comfortable, sociable way to reach islands that are otherwise hard to visit.
If you want a few nights of overwater luxury, yes, and it works well at the end of an island-hopping trip. See our [Bora Bora page](/destinations/australasia-pacific/bora-bora) for how we plan it.
Tell us a little and a specialist will reply with ideas, dates that work and a price. Best months: May to October.
One volcanic peak, one vast turquoise lagoon and a ring of motu hotels built over the water: the honeymoon island.
Island resorts on clear lagoons, soft coral reefs and a warm village welcome, an easy add-on to Australia or New Zealand.
Fiords, volcanoes, vineyards and fine lodges within a few hours of each other, at the far end of the world.
