Lemurs, chameleons and baobabs found almost nowhere else: a wildlife journey first, with a beach at the end if you want one.
Madagascar split from Africa so long ago that most of its wildlife evolved alone. Lemurs, many chameleons, strange spiny forests and six of the world's baobab species exist here and almost nowhere else. The indri's dawn song in Andasibe, one of the loudest calls of any lemur, is the sound people remember.
The island is huge and the roads are slow, so we plan it as a journey rather than a tour: the rainforest of the east, the highlands and Ranomafana, then south to the canyons of Isalo, with a few flights to cut out the longest drives. A beach on Île Sainte-Marie or Nosy Be finishes it off.
Be ready for the trade-offs. Lodges are comfortable but simpler than on the other islands, drives can take all day, and domestic flights change at short notice, so we build in slack. Healthcare outside the capital is limited.
The experiences we plan most often, with the months they are at their best.
Analamazaotra, the forest at Andasibe, lies about 140 kilometres east of Antananarivo and is the easiest place to see the indri, the largest living lemur. Walk with a local guide in the early morning for the song, then return after dark for chameleons, frogs and mouse lemurs. Neighbouring Mantadia is wilder and quieter.
Ranomafana National Park protects a steep, misty rainforest in the south-eastern highlands, home to around 14 lemur species. The golden bamboo lemur, one of the rarest, lives here. Trails are steep and muddy, so wear proper boots and take your time. Two nights gives you day and night walks.
Isalo National Park is a massif of golden sandstone cut by canyons, with palm-lined oases and natural pools you can swim in. Ring-tailed lemurs and sifakas live in the gorges. Walk the Canyon des Makis or the trail to the Piscine Naturelle early, before the heat, and stay to watch sunset colour the rock.
Tsingy de Bemaraha, in the west, is a UNESCO World Heritage site of razor-sharp limestone pinnacles. Guided circuits cross rope bridges and ladders between the spires, with harnesses clipped to fixed lines. It is a long drive from Morondava and reachable only in the dry season, so it suits the adventurous. Combine it with the baobabs.
Near Morondava on the west coast, a dirt road runs between a line of giant Grandidier's baobabs, some many centuries old. At sunset the trunks turn orange and the sky goes pink behind them. Go for sunset and again at dawn, when there are fewer people. Morondava is a domestic flight from Antananarivo.
Every southern winter, humpback whales come to the warm channel between Île Sainte-Marie and the east coast to calve and court. The season runs roughly from June or July to September, peaking in July and August. Watch from a small boat with an operator who follows the viewing code.
Expect comfortable, characterful lodges rather than big resorts. In the parks, stay as close to the forest as you can for early starts. For the beach, Nosy Be in the north-west has the widest choice, while Île Sainte-Marie is quieter and better placed for whales.
We match each trip in Madagascar to hotels, lodges and villas chosen for the way you travel. Tell us what matters and a specialist will suggest two or three that fit.
Ask for hotel suggestionsMadagascar has a dry season from May to October and a rainy season from November to April. Cyclones are possible through the rains, most often from January to March, when we suggest avoiding the island altogether.
Within the dry season, July and August bring humpback whales to Île Sainte-Marie and cold nights in the highlands. September to November is our favourite window: warm, still largely dry, with baby lemurs and active reptiles.
Indri at Andasibe, the highlands and Ranomafana, the canyons of Isalo, then a flight to Île Sainte-Marie for beaches and, in season, whales. 12 nights.
Connect in Nairobi or Paris for Antananarivo and rest at a small hotel near the airport after the long journey.
Drive east to Andasibe for dawn walks with the indri, night walks for chameleons and a day in Mantadia.
A long day south through rice terraces and Antsirabe, then two nights in Ranomafana for its lemurs and misty rainforest.
Continue south to Isalo for canyon walks, natural pools and ring-tailed lemurs, then on to Toliara for the flight north.
Fly via Antananarivo to Île Sainte-Marie for quiet beaches and, from July to September, humpback whales in the channel.
Fly back to Antananarivo to connect with your international flight home via Nairobi or Paris.
Practical notes checked against their sources. For entry and safety, the FCDO advice for Madagascar (opens in a new tab) is always the authority.
There are no direct flights from the UK. Kenya Airways connects from Heathrow through Nairobi, and Air France through Paris, with a total of 14 hours or more including the change. Air Mauritius links Antananarivo with Mauritius, which makes a good combination.
UK passport holders can currently get entry permission for short stays, or a longer tourist visa, on arrival. Read the FCDO entry requirements (opens in a new tab) before you book and again before you fly.
Read the FCDO entry requirements for Madagascar (opens in a new tab)
Malaria and dengue occur, and tap water is not safe to drink. Hospitals in the capital handle only routine cases, with complex care flown to Mauritius, South Africa or Réunion, so full insurance with evacuation cover is essential. See TravelHealthPro (opens in a new tab) and the FCDO health page (opens in a new tab) well before you travel.
The currency is the Malagasy ariary. Outside the better hotels Madagascar runs largely on cash, so change money in Antananarivo and carry enough for tips, park guides and small purchases.
SIM cards from Yas (formerly Telma), Orange and Airtel can be bought at the airport and activated quickly with your passport. Signal is good in towns but patchy in the parks and on long drives.
Tipping is expected from visitors, though amounts are modest. Around 10 per cent in restaurants is usual. Park guides and your driver are the people to tip properly.
The dry season, from May to October, is best for travel, and September to November is our favourite for wildlife, with baby lemurs and active reptiles. July and August bring humpback whales to Île Sainte-Marie but also more visitors. Avoid January to March, the heart of the rainy and cyclone season.
At least 12 nights. Distances are large and roads are slow, so a shorter trip means either seeing one region well or spending most of your time in a car. Two weeks lets you add a beach.
For families with older children who enjoy nature and do not mind long drives, it is a rewarding trip. Lemurs, chameleons and night walks go down well. Younger children may struggle with the distances and simpler facilities. Malaria precautions and health preparations are needed, so speak to a travel health professional early.
Yes, and it works well. Air Mauritius links Antananarivo and Mauritius in about two hours, so you can finish a wildlife journey with a week on the beach in [Mauritius](/destinations/indian-ocean/mauritius).
Tell us a little and a specialist will reply with ideas, dates that work and a price. Best months: July to October.
One island with lagoon beaches, forest gorges and Creole cooking, where the coast you choose matters as much as the hotel.
An hour with mountain gorillas in the Virungas, then chimpanzees, rainforest and a big five savannah, all within a day's drive.
Granite boulders, forested peaks and islands you can hop between by ferry: the Indian Ocean for people who like to explore.
Volcanic islands where sea lions, iguanas and boobies ignore you entirely, seen from a small ship with a naturalist guide.
