Amanemu sits on a low headland over Ago Bay, a sheltered inlet of pearl rafts and wooded islands in Ise-Shima National Park. It takes the ryokan idea, hot spring water and seasonal food, and gives it room: every suite has its own spring-fed bath and a wide lanai, and the spa runs to 2,000 square metres.
This is the place to add something most visitors to Japan miss. The Ise Grand Shrine, the most sacred in the Shinto faith, is within reach for a morning, and on the bay the ama, the local women free-divers, cook their catch in their huts. Breakfast, dinner and a daily experience are included, so the days need little planning.
It is a long way from anywhere else on a typical first trip, about three hours by train from Nagoya, so it needs at least three nights to earn its place. The bay is for looking at rather than swimming in. The two-bedroom villas are among the best options in Japan for a family travelling together.