East Bali feels like a different island from the south. The traffic thins, the rice terraces of the Buitan valley climb towards Mount Agung, and the water palaces at Tirta Gangga and Ujung are an easy morning out. Amankila is the reason most of our clients go there.
The three-tier pool is the picture everyone knows, and it lives up to it. Below it, a coconut grove leads to the Beach Club, eight lounging bales on the sand and a quiet black-sand beach with kayaks and paddleboards. The resort's two traditional outriggers run out to snorkelling and diving sites such as Manta Point and Crystal Bay.
Walkways link the pavilions through the trees and there are a lot of steps, so it is not ideal for anyone unsteady on their feet. The beach is dark volcanic sand, not white. It is 90 minutes from the airport, so we usually pair it with Ubud rather than treating it as a first or last night.