ol Donyo Lodge sits on the Mbirikani Ranch in the Chyulu Hills, between Tsavo and Amboseli, on land owned by the Maasai. The view is south across the plains to Kilimanjaro, and on a clear morning the mountain fills the horizon from your plunge pool. It is a good first or last stop on a Kenya safari: quieter than the Mara, and with more ways to spend the day.
The range of activities is the draw. You can drive, walk, ride, cycle or take a helicopter, and night drives are possible on the ranch. Intermediate and experienced riders can canter across the plains past giraffe and zebra. The two hides at the waterhole in front of the lodge, one of them sunken to elephant-foot level, are the place to spend a hot afternoon with a camera while big-tusked bulls come in to drink.
Every suite has a rooftop star bed, and sleeping out under the Kenyan sky with lions calling is the night people remember. The lodge suits active couples and families with older children who ride. It is not a big-cat-a-minute destination like the Mara; wildlife here is less dense, and the pleasure is in the variety of ways to see it.