Most Ngorongoro stays are about the rim and a day on the crater floor. The Highlands is about the wider highlands as well. It sits on the slopes of Olmoti Crater, away from the rim lodges, in domes of canvas and perspex with a wood-burning stove in each. Mornings are cold at this altitude, evenings are spent by the fire, and it feels more like a mountain lodge than a safari camp.
The crater floor is about an hour away, and the camp is at its best as a base for walking: up Olmoti for the view, or down into Empakaai Crater to the soda lake and its flamingos. Local guides lead the hikes, and there are visits to nearby Maasai communities. Stay three nights if you want to do both hikes as well as the crater.
Be clear about the journey. The nearest airstrip is Lake Manyara, three hours away by road, so this works best on a driving route between Tarangire and the Serengeti. It is cold from June to September, and the domes are not for anyone who wants a solid-walled room. Children from five are welcome, and there is a family suite.