The Gulf at a slower pace: quiet Saadiyat beaches, the Louvre and the Grand Mosque, with the Liwa dunes a drive away.
Abu Dhabi is the capital of the Emirates and feels it: wide boulevards, large parks and far fewer crowds than Dubai. The beaches on Saadiyat Island are long, pale and quiet, and hawksbill turtles nest on them in spring. A short drive away are the Louvre Abu Dhabi and the Sheikh Zayed Grand Mosque.
It is also the gateway to the emirate's interior. Liwa, on the edge of the Empty Quarter, has some of the highest dunes in Arabia, and the garden city of Al Ain has a UNESCO-listed oasis irrigated by ancient falaj channels.
The caveat is the same as across the Gulf. June to September is fiercely hot and humid, and Abu Dhabi has less nightlife than Dubai, which some see as a drawback and others as the point.
The experiences we plan most often, with the months they are at their best.
The Grand Mosque is the sight most people come for: white marble domes, reflecting pools and a prayer hall carpeted in one vast hand-knotted rug. Visit late afternoon so you see it in daylight and again as the lights come on. Modest dress is required for everyone, and women cover their hair. Opening times change on Fridays and during Ramadan.
Jean Nouvel's latticed dome sits over the water on Saadiyat Island, throwing a moving pattern of light across the galleries below. The collection tells a story of world art by era rather than by region, which makes it easy to follow with children. Go at opening time, then walk the waterfront under the dome.
Abu Dhabi's coast is fringed with grey mangrove, and two areas are easy to explore: the Eastern Mangroves near the city centre and Jubail Mangrove Park, with a boardwalk as well as kayak routes. Go early on a rising tide, when herons, crabs and small fish are busiest. Guided trips run most of the year.
Liwa is a crescent of date-palm villages about three hours south-west of the city, where the Rub' al Khali, the Empty Quarter, begins. The dunes here are huge and apricot-coloured; Moreeb Dune is the best known. Stay at least one night for sunset from a ridge and a sky full of stars. Only go in the cooler months.
Al Ain, near the Omani border, is one of the oldest settlements in the Emirates. Its date-palm oasis is watered by falaj, ancient irrigation channels, and forms part of a UNESCO World Heritage site with the surrounding tombs and forts. Walk the shaded lanes of the oasis, visit Al Jahili Fort, then drive up Jebel Hafeet for the view.
Saadiyat Beach runs for kilometres with low dunes behind it, and hotels keep a respectful distance from the turtle nesting areas. Families split their time with Yas Island, home to the theme parks and the Formula 1 circuit. Staying on Saadiyat and visiting Yas for a day or two gives children both.
Saadiyat Island is our first choice: quiet beaches, the cultural district on the doorstep and a short drive to the mosque. Yas Island suits families focused on the parks. The Corniche is better for a short city stay. Add a night or two in the desert at Liwa for contrast.
We match each trip in Abu Dhabi to hotels, lodges and villas chosen for the way you travel. Tell us what matters and a specialist will suggest two or three that fit.
Ask for hotel suggestionsAbu Dhabi follows the Gulf pattern: a warm, dry winter from November to March and a long summer when coastal temperatures reach the mid-forties. October and April are good shoulder months for the beach and the city, but too warm for Liwa.
Ramadan shifts about 11 days earlier each year and falls across February and March in 2027. The city stays open, with quieter days and lively evenings.
Three nights on Saadiyat for the mosque, the Louvre and the mangroves, two nights in the dunes at Liwa, and a final night in Al Ain. 6 nights.
Settle into a beach hotel on Saadiyat. Visit the Louvre, kayak the Jubail mangroves at dawn and see the Grand Mosque as the lights come on.
Drive south-west to Liwa for two nights among the dunes, with sunset walks, a morning drive to Moreeb Dune and dinner under the stars.
Cross the desert to Al Ain for a walk through the oasis, Al Jahili Fort and sunset from the top of Jebel Hafeet.
An early start for the drive of about two hours to Zayed International Airport and a daytime flight back to Heathrow.
Practical notes checked against their sources. For entry and safety, the FCDO advice for Abu Dhabi (opens in a new tab) is always the authority.
Etihad and British Airways fly direct from Heathrow to Abu Dhabi in about seven hours. Dubai International is about 90 minutes away by road, which widens the choice of flights.
UK passport holders can currently get a free visitor visa on arrival. Read the FCDO entry requirements (opens in a new tab) before you book, and the latest UAE travel advice (opens in a new tab), which covers regional tensions, before you fly.
Read the FCDO entry requirements for Abu Dhabi (opens in a new tab)
Some UK medicines are controlled in the UAE and need approval before travel; the FCDO health page (opens in a new tab) explains how. See TravelHealthPro (opens in a new tab) for general advice. In the desert, carry more water than you think you need.
The currency is the UAE dirham, the same as in Dubai. Cards are accepted almost everywhere, but carry some cash for Al Ain's markets and for tips.
e&, the Abu Dhabi-based operator, sells a prepaid Visitor Line for tourists with data and calls. Mobile coverage is good in the cities and along the main desert roads.
Tipping is customary across the Emirates but never compulsory. Around 10 to 15 per cent in restaurants is usual for good service if no service charge has been added. Desert guides and drivers appreciate a cash tip.
Yes, particularly on Saadiyat Island, where the beach is long, pale and far quieter than Dubai's. The sea is calm and warm through the winter. There are fewer beach clubs and less nightlife, which suits couples and families after rest with culture close by.
Loose clothing that covers arms and legs for everyone, and a headscarf for women. Shorts, sleeveless tops and tight or sheer clothing are not allowed. Arrive underdressed and you may be turned away.
Easily. The drive between them takes about 90 minutes, so a few nights in each works well. We often suggest starting in Dubai for the food and energy, then finishing on Saadiyat for a quieter beach. The Liwa desert is better reached from Abu Dhabi.
If you want real desert, yes. The dunes around Liwa are among the highest in Arabia and far emptier than those near the cities. It is a three-hour drive, so stay at least one night, ideally two, and go between November and March. In summer the heat makes it unsafe.
Tell us a little and a specialist will reply with ideas, dates that work and a price. Best months: November to February.
Seven hours from London, winter sun you can count on, and an old creek-side city under the glass towers.
Wadis you can swim through, mud-brick forts and a night in the dunes: Arabia as a road trip, seven hours from Heathrow.
Two museums worth the trip on their own, an old souq that still trades and an inland sea in the dunes, all within an hour of Doha.
Mountains, mangroves and a quieter beach, 45 minutes north of Dubai airport: the Emirates for people who like to be outdoors.
