Verdura is the answer when a family wants Sicily but also wants space: 230 hectares of coastline, golf and countryside, with a long shoreline and sea-view rooms. It has the facilities of a big resort, eight restaurants and bars, a kids' programme and a playground at Verdùland, without the feeling of being packed in.
Golfers come for the 45 holes designed by Kyle Phillips; everyone else tends to end up at the spa, which covers 4,000 square metres and has four seawater thalassotherapy pools. The resort's own farm supplies the kitchens, and Fulvio Pierangelini's menus run from wood-fired pizza at Liolà to Japanese-influenced cooking in the old Saracen tower at Nagori.
The catch is remoteness. This corner of Sicily is a long transfer from the island's main airports, and the sights, Agrigento's temples, Selinunte, the Scala dei Turchi, are day trips rather than strolls. Couples looking for a village atmosphere or evening passeggiata will do better on the east coast. For a week of sea, sport and good food with children, it works very well.